Winterization of the pond

Winterization of the pond

"Winterization is not necessary for all ponds. Climate is a big factor when determining whether a pond has a real need for such seasonal maintenance.
Debris cleanup from the fall may be inevitable in any part of the country, but only ponds that experience ice-cover over long periods of time will require winterization." The Ecosystem Pond Book

When should winterization be done?
Winter preparation should be started after trees have stopped dropping their leaves in the late fall. Properly winterizing a pond at this time of year will make it easier for an annual clean-up the following spring.

What should be done for ponds with heavy tree cover?
Mechanical skimmers cannot catch 100% of the leaf and debris fall into a pond. Use of a net is recommended for getting the leaves and organics from the bottom of the pond that has escaped the skimmer.
Debris that is left in the pond bottom will rot, decompose, producing gases that can be harmful to fish. Removing the debris will give you a head start on the spring clean-out and make life easier for your dormant fish.
Ponds which are surrounded by thick trees will require more frequent maintenance during the fall. Skimmer nets/bags should be emptied daily during leaf fall. Placing netting over the pond can also help to keep leaves out of the pond.

What about the plants?
Plant material should be cut back in the fall to prevent organic debris from decomposing in the water over the winter.
Hardy bog and marginal plants should be cut back to 2" above the water level. Hardy lily leaves and stems should be cut back 2" to 3" at the base of the plant. Tropical plants can be treated as annuals, replaced in springtime, or brought inside for the winter.

Can a pond run throughout the entire winter?
The important issue here is to make certain the pond has enough water to operate properly. The normal water supply to the pond may not be available due to spigots and pipes being turned off to prevent freezing and bursting. Running a hose from inside the house is an option for water supply, also carrying buckets of water from the house. Topping-off the pond usually needs to be done a few times per month, if the normal water supply is not available during the winter and keeping the pond running during the winter is desired.

Will the waterfall freeze?
Pump size is the key in determining whether or not a waterfall is able to operate during the winter.
A pump that provides at least 2,000 gph can be operated throughout the winter without a problem, as long as it runs continuously. The motion of the water will usually keep a hole open in the ice at the base of the waterfalls and in front of the circulation system.
In repeated sub-zero temperatures, ice can build up and prevent the water from the falls from getting to the circulation system, the skimmer. If this begins to happen, it is best to shut down the system until the ice has melted away enough so that it can no longer interfere with the water flow.
*If the pump has been turned off during a heavy freeze, be sure to remove any back-flow obstacles from the circulation system. Otherwise, the water that remains will freeze solid and may remain so into the spring, which will prevent the start-up of the pond. Flex pipe is usually undamaged from ice in this situation.

Warning about slow-moving streams.
If you have a long and/or curving stream, ice dams can form and divert the water over the liner.

Will filters and pipes break?
Most good filters are constructed out of polyethylene and are designed to bow and bend with freezing and thawing effects of the winter.
PVC flex pipe is reinforced and should not crack, unless water is left in the pipe and allowed to freeze. If the pond is left running during the winter, the constant water flow through the pipe will prevent freezing in the pipe. If the system is turned off, most of the water in the pipe should drain back into the pond.

What should be done with the pump if the system is shut down for the winter?
Remove the pump from the system. Store it in a frost-free place, best submerged in a bucket of water to prevent the seals from drying and cracking. Most submersible pumps are oil-filled and should not be allowed to freeze solid.
*Impeller tip: Extend the life of the pump by clearing the impeller shaft free of any debris before storing for the winter. Spin the impeller a couple of turns by hand before turning it on in the spring to prevent any corrosion or debris from seizing the impeller and therefore preventing proper pump function.

What about the filter, if the system is shut down?
Remove the filter and rinse it down. Store in a garage or shed. If left in the shut down system, filter media may freeze solid and cause unnecessary delays during spring clean-out.

What about the fish?
Ornamental fish do just fine in two feet of water, as long as some form of oxygenation is provided, and a hole is kept in the ice to allow the escape of any harmful gases.
It's recommended to place a waterfall pump in a basket, bucket, or pump sock and surround the intake of the pump with stones to prevent clogging from debris. Place the pump on the second or third shelf of the pond so the surface water is broken by the aeration. The agitation from the pump will prevent freezing and provide oxygen.
Another option is to use a floating heater in combination with a small submersible pump, (at least 150 gph). Place the pump on the first shelf of the pond to bubble at least one inch above the surface. Place the heater in a separate area of the pond from the pump to avoid moving the heated water. De-icers can be used to keep a hole in the ice, but do not heat water, or provide aeration.

"The aesthetic rewards of the winter pond are absolutely worthwhile, so keep the system running as long as possible."
The Ecosystem Pond Book

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