Just Click for a tip.


1. What Tools Does She Use and When?
Description of what tools to use, what screws and nails and when.

2. Her Basic Home Tool Kit:
A very basic tool kit for those jobs around the house or apartment.

3. Her Basic Painting Tool Kit:
A very basic painting kit that enables you to do any painting job.

4. Some Painting Tips:
Basic facts that enable her to do that painting job herself from start to finish.

5. Some Wallpapering Tips:
Basic facts that enable her to do that wallpapering job herself from start to finish.

6. How Do I Find a Stud?
That's not a man girls, that's a stud in a wall.

7. Speaking of Ladders?
Ladders for all jobs.

8. Need Some Plumbing Tips?
Easy steps that enable her to do that nasty plumbing job herself.

9. What to do in a Power Failure:
Emergency tips when you are in the dark.

10. What kind of Glue do I use?
Descriptions of what type of glue you might use.

11. Want some help with that Wooden Floor?
Just some easy tips for that marked wooden floor.

12. Some Emergency Repairs for Pipes:
Just in case you need some help with the pipes. For major jobs you must call a plumber.

13. Home Maintenance Checklist:
Description and tips on home maintenance that you can do year round!
Adjustments and Replacement Tips:
Some window safety features.

14. Easy to read book suggestions for further investigation.

15. Links to on-line help for more details and who to contact.

16. HOME IMPROVEMENT STORES





1. What Tools Does She Use and When?
Awl: A long pointed shaft (like an ice pick). Use it to punch small holes in the walls to start a hole for small wood screws so the drill bit does not wobble all over the place.
Hammer: designed for hammering and removing nails. Make sure it feels good in your hand. Try a 13 ounce, curved claw hammer with a plastic or fiberglass handle.
Locking C-Clamp: Jaws that hold items with an adjusting screw.
Slotted Screwdriver: This is a regular screwdriver. Slotted end holds and turns the screw. You will want to have a set of these in different sizes, even the long handled and short handled versions.
Phillips Screwdriver: This has a cross-slot design that keeps the screw in place. This is when I like my cordless power drill. It can hold either size and get into all places. Most screws are Phillips head.
Allen Wrench: These little screws with no heads and hexagonal holes in place of slots are called set screws. You use the Allen Wrench to remove them and set them. Buy a set of eight ranging from 0.05 inch to 15/32 inch.
Adjustable Wrench: Jaws that open and close with a slight move. You will need an 8" to handle most jobs but they come in 6" and 10".
Crescent wrench. An adjustable wrench that will turn square nuts and bolts.
Diagonal-Cutting Pliers: They say you can use these for electrical work but I have found I need them for other tasks as you will also find. Use a 7 inch good brand name.
Locking Pliers: You may see them as vise grips. Once the jaws attach themselves around an object you can squeeze the handles to tighten up. A curved claw in a 10 inch model will work best for most any project.
Needle-Nose Pliers: I like it to get into small spaces. Just like it says long-nose pliers - they look like a bird's beak. Buy a 7" good brand name model.
Slip-Joint Pliers: They have teeth and an adjustable jaw to grip objects as well as nuts and bolts. You can get them in 6", 8" or 10". 8" usually works for me best.
Plunger: Use the funnel-cup plunger for those clogged toilets and sinks. I would keep one specifically for the toilet and another for the sinks. By pushing up and down on the opening you can dislodge the area easily.
Putty Knives: For applying all types of window putty, wall compound, wood filler, you name it you can use it. There are several widths to use, so have them all, they will come in handy, standard size,wide size and 6" drywall size.
Staple Gun: One of my favorites for stapling rugs to steps and many other applications. Use a name brand model using T50 staples. You will love your staple gun for years to come.
Trowel: This will be used on walls with large holes. This is the steel trowel that is larger and covers a larger area. (tips)


2. Her Basic Home Tool Kit:
Sandpaper (several different grades)
Nails
Scissors
masking tape
Screwdrivers (long and short handles)
Craft cutting knife 2 regular;
2 phillips-head type Pliers
Hammer
Tape measure
Gloves
Oil (regular & silicone)
Screws
String
Wrenches (various sizes) (tips)


3. Her Basic Painting tool Kit:
Several sized brushes (small,medium,large)
Scraper
masking Tape
Angled brush
Sponge
Drop Cloths
Roller and together in a package
newspaper
Paint pad
cardboard (8x11)
Paint tray (usually buy roller
Safety Goggles
Thinner
Glass pint jar (tips)



4. Some Painting Tips: Preparing and Clean up Tips:
Read your label on the can before you start for your own protection. Calculate how much paint you need for your room. Use a primer if it's the first time your are painting the walls.
1 gal covers approx. 590 sq.ft. Latex paint covers the same area. Know how well the paint cleans up in case of an accident and exactly what to use for clean up. Latex (or water-based paint) will come out with soap and water. Oil paints don't clean up so easy. You need a thinner or turpentine to clean the brushes and your hands. Make sure to lay your drop cloths or newspaper on the floor of the area
of the wall you are working. Don't forget to remove all obstacles from the walls and windows.

Basics:
Use your rollers, larger brush and paint pads for large areas. Brushes take more time and care than a roller or paint pad - those seem to glide more smoothly and evenly. With the paint pad you can go all directions and it will look fine. I suggest you paint the baseboards and windows and doors last.
Pour some paint into a glass jar and use that while you do the small spots with your angled brush around the doors and windows.

THOUGHTFUL IDEAS.....
1. Put a paper plate through your brush handle to catch the drips while painting the ceiling.
2. Hold a piece of cardboard against the wall and above the baseboard as you paint to protect your newly painted surface.
3. Hold a piece of cardboard behind pipes as you paint them to protect the walls.
4. Tape the glass around the edges of the window frame before you paint.
5. Paint windows early in the day so you can keep them open to dry sufficiently and they won't stick.

Cleaning up:
Clean off your brushes and rollers at the end of the day or when you stop for a long period.
Brushes will harden and be useless - so just throw them away.
* Wash the Latex paint brushes with soap and water or detergent.
* Clean up oil-based paint by wiping it across some newspaper or old rags. Swish the
brush in turpentine (or thinner) and rinse in warm, soapy water, then clean water.
* Run the roller over old newspaper to remove the remainder of the paint.
Wash the roller in warm soap and water or detergent.
* You can soak the brushes in turpentine overnight if needed.
* Cleaning up yourself... you can use vegetable oil to remove dried paint from your skin.
It will not dry out your hands like the turpentine will. (tips)


5. Some Wallpapering Tips:
Her Basic Tools for Wallpapering:
Sponge
Seam roller
Smoothing brush
Pasting table
Pasting brush
Bucket with a handle
Scissors (sharp)
Steam stripper (if needed)
Wooden Doweling
Size (if needed)

Wallpapering is not the easiest job in the world ladies. You may want to get some instruction or see it done first at a Home Depot or Lowes. They even have video's out now to show you exactly what to do.

Here are some main pointers:
Most of us don't like to remove old wallpaper but sometimes it must be done. Thoroughly soak a small area of wallpaper with plain water. Make a few slits with the corner of a scraper or knife and beginning scraping - working upward.
If you use the steamer: The steamer will dissolve the old paste with blasts of hot steam. Then work in a upward motion to quickly remove the wallpaper.
Vinyl paper comes off quite easily by grabbing the corner and pulling upward. Be sure to wash the walls afterward to get it clean of the old paste.

With that done, always paper the ceilings first so paste will not drip onto the newly papered walls. Apply a coat of size to the walls. That allows you to slide the paper around for a perfect fit. Follow the instructions to mix the paste. Mix well with a dowel and let stand as bubbles diminish.
Don't be afraid to use a roller instead of a sponge to apply paste more quickly.

How much paper do I buy?
You can always ask the salesman at the paint & paper store but you must know the size of the room before you go - don't guess. To give you an idea of what you'll need:
Ceilings: 30-40 ft 2 roll 42-50 ft. 3 rolls 55-60 ft. 4 rolls 65-70 ft. 6 rolls
Walls: 7 ft. X 30 ft. 4 rolls 8 ft. X 59 ft. 10 rolls
7 ft. X 46 ft. 6 rolls 9 ft. X 30 ft. 6 rolls
7 ft. X 59 ft. 8 rolls 9 ft. X 46 ft. 8 rolls
8 ft. X 30 ft. 5 rolls 9 ft. X 59 ft. 10 rolls
8 ft. X 46 ft. 7 rolls

THOUGHTFUL IDEA.....
1. Paint over any grease spots. This prevents the grease from soaking through the paper.
2. Use lining paper on the walls to allow for a smooth surface. It must dry 48 hours.
3. Tie a pair of scissors to a string to make your own plumb line.

Starting to hang:
Start nearest the windows and work across the ceiling. For the walls, start near the back windows. Work away from that point in both directions. Use the smoothing brush over the paper as you go.
Careful, not to hard or you will tear the paper - remember, it's wet from the paste.
It's hard to cut around a light switch the first time. I usually take it off and it saves a lot of wrong cuts. Same for the electrical plugs. (tips)


6. How Do I Find a Stud?
What's a stud? Now girls don't laugh, we're talking walls here. Your stud is a 2x4 or 2x6 piece of lumber that holds the walls up. When you are working on walls, nailing up a picture or fixing walls you should know where the stud might be. Use a hammer or other heavy object and tap slowly and carefully and you can hear the sound change from a hollow type sound between the studs and a harder sound when you are on the stud. This does not work with old thick plastered walls.
Let's measure: Studs are mostly located 16 inches, maybe 24 inches, apart from each other. Check the electrical outlet - it is usually attached to a stud. You can start from there and measure over from there to your point.
Check the Baseboards: that's the trim board along the floor bottom. They should be nailed to the studs, hopefully. You've got to look very close for those tiny nails and then use some straight edge or ruler to follow the stud up the wall to your point of contact.
Easy solution: A thing called a stud finder which can be obtained from your local hardware store.
It takes a little practice to use this devise. (tips)


7. Speaking of ladders?
You've got your stepladders, straight ladders, extension ladders and folding ladders. They are tricky to maneuver for a women, they have a tendency to be top-heavy and fall easily if not secured. You will need at least 16 foot to reach your roof (a ranch home).
1. Straight Ladders: These won't go high enough for outside work.
2. Stepladders go as high as 10 foot.
3. Extension Ladders: They have two sections joined together. Since these two pieces over lap each other the ladder only extends 16 foot for a 20 foot ladder. You can use the bottom half for a straight ladder.
4. Folding Ladders: Use as a straight or stepladder or a small scaffold. But these can get very expensive and you may only use it once.
Anything bigger than 16 foot will be too awkward for a lady to handle. Just getting it up to the side of the house will need some major help. (tips)


8. Need Some Plumbing Tips?
A Women's Basic Plumbing Kit:
Mole wrench
Resin
Sink plunger
Insulating tape
Adjustable wrench

Those dripping faucets:
Drips can be hazardous to your sink. That dripping faucet may only need a new washer not the dreaded plumber.

To replace a washer: Just turn off the main water supply under that faucet. Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the faucet cover (in the bathroom), using a soft cloth to protect the faucet itself. Unscrew the large nut inside with an open-ended wrench. Lift out old washer and replace it. Of course, you'll
have to buy that washer at a hardware store before you attempt this. Don't forget to turn the water supply back on. And it might be a good idea to start this job in the morning in case you run into a problem and really do need that plumber. Older houses have many surprises none of us like and you just might get one when you take that faucet cover off.
* On old faucets leaking handles indicate that the gland needs replacing.
* On modern new faucets these have O-ring seals instead of glands.
When you go to buy an O-ring you must know the name of the manufacturer of the faucet.

THOUGHTFUL IDEA.....
1. know where the main shut valve for your home because you may have to shut it of in an emergency someday. If you don't know - start searching. In apartments, the Janitor will do this.

How do I clear blocked drains and sinks?
Someone has let those food scraps or grease or other solids slip down those drains and that is
what's blocking them. You can use some salt, baking soda and cream of tarter to keep them flowing smoothly. It is recommended that you do not use lye in the drain because it will form a hard clump.

Let's try some things...
First get the water out by baling it out with a bucket or sponge. There are some very good products on the market that will loosen a drain. Read the labels carefully before you use it because this is going to take a few hours. Try using a plunger. Pump it up and down on the drain hole to release what is blocking it. Most of time it will come right up.

For the toilet: Fill a bucket with water and pour it into the bowl quickly. Put a toilet plunger to the bottom hole and pump up and down. This should get it flowing unless there are major problems....
then it's time for the dreaded plumber. (tips)


9. What to do in a Power Failure:
Before you go to check your fuse box check outside and see if other lights are out, it may be a major blackout. Then just get those candles and light up. Turn off all appliances and lights and TV. When everything comes back on it will be a big surge and may blow a fuse. When power returns reset all clocks and timers on the stove, microwave, etc. If it's been out for quite some time don't open the freezer door for at least 6 hours.

If it is a main power failure or just a localized one know where your main fuse box is located and have some extra fuses close by. After you replace the fuse and should it blow again, check that it is not overloaded with appliances, etc. Replacing fuses is not a normal once-a-month job - you're lucky if it's once a year. I would write or type some directions on how to do it and tape it to the side of the
box lid. Keep a flashlight handy (and know where it is) to find your way to the box. Keep some emergency candles in a place you will remember along with the matches. (tips)


10. What kind of Glue do I use?
There are all kinds of glue.
Epoxy's are popular. It's a heavy-duty glue with two-parts. You can use them on metal, glass, wood, ceramic and even concrete.
Super Glue or Krazy Glue: Very fast setting. Use this on metal, plastics and ceramics. Please be careful with this one, it can also glue your fingers together. You could try nail polish remover to get it off but there are no guarantees.
Contact: Gluing and repairing counter tops. This will glue instantly, so get it right the first time.
White Glue: Sometimes called Carpenters glue. For gluing cloth, paper and wood. You could repair furniture with this but have to tape it or clamp the pieces while the glue sets.
Elmer's Glue: The old standby for those paper product. (tips)


11. Want some help with that Wooden Floor?
Just Stains: For those stains that don't come up easily: You could try fine steel wool and mineral spirits. Any really bad stains need professional help and probably the whole floor will have to be done. I've also found some very good products on the market to clean up stains. They won't be in your local Wal-Mart
though - check the hardware stores.

More Serious Flaws: For some minor defects or even a cigarette burn on waxed or varnished floors, hand sand the area lightly using fine sandpaper. Scrape out a burn with a wood chisel or screw driver. If it's a large hole, use some wood filler. Remember to color the area with stain to match the rest of the floor. Oil, varnish or wax the area. Good idea to give the whole floor a re-waxing job to match.
Okay for wax and varnish but how about the Polyurethane floors? It's great stuff and looks beautiful but this is the toughest floor to repair. It's not easy to make repairs (without noticing them) on polyurethane because they show every scrap and scratch. You could rent a sander (this is big, big, big) and spend days
on this project or you could call someone to do it. The big problem with this type of floor is you have to sand the surface and it takes a lot of elbow grease. If you do this by machine you may make a hole where you don't want it to be. Anyway, try sanding and lighten the spot. Then you have to stain it to match the rest of the floor. Next you will need a paint sanding sealer to brush on the spot. After this dries completely you can varnish the floor and pray it matches. (tips)


12. Some Emergency Repairs for Pipes:
Coming Soon... (tips)



13. Home Maintenance Checklist:
Description and tips on home maintenance that you can do year round!
Adjustments and Replacement Tips:
Storm Door Closer:
Let's adjust that storm door closer mechanism. That's the devise that pulls the storm door closed without your help. If it bangs closed or just does not close at all it might be as simple as adjusting a screw. Find the closer adjusting screw, located at the end of the door closer cylinder mechanism. To make the door close slower turn the screw one-half turn clockwise. For the door to close quicker turn the screw counterclockwise. Then just open it up full wide and let it close. Notice which way it closes so you can change it again if you want to Or repeat till the door does not bang anymore. If this does not work you're going to need a new closer.

Changing Fluorescent Lights:
That's the long fixture probably in your kitchen or den. The fluorescent tubes must be bought at a hardware store and you must know the size. First make sure the light is off. Remove the diffuser panel (that's the plastic shield). It should easily pull away at one edge. Remove the bulb by rotating it 90 degrees and pulling out one end. Then you can jot down the numbers, type, wattage, and length and buy a new one. To replace: align the pins with the end slots and push the bulb into the end sockets. Twist the bulb 90 degrees and you should feel the pins go into the socket. Replace the diffuser panel.

Adjusting a Drawer:
In some older homes the draws sometimes will stick while pulling them open. Watch as you open the drawer where it seems to stick and work on that area first. Pull the drawer out and gently sand the area (top or bottom edge) and try again until it moves more freely.
If the sides are sticking you could do a quick fix and rub wax or soap on the side edges and it will free the drawer.

Smoke Detectors:
Remember to replace your batteries in your smoke detectors. The best time would be New Years Day
for all of them. They will need a 9-volt battery so buy several before January 1st and you're all set. Open the case by pulling down on the tab near the perimeter of the detector. Remove the old battery by unsnapping it. Replace with a new battery and replace the cover.

Leaky Garden Hose:
You don't have to throw out that hose just because it has a leak. Find the location of the leak. If it's leaking between the head nozzle and the rubber hose check that it is tight enough. Use pliers to tighten the nozzle if you cannot do it by hand.

If the hose leaks back behind the coupling cut the hose roughtly 2 to 2-1/2 inches back and cut it completely off. Take the old coupling to the hardward store and buy a replacement. You'll notice there are some extra parts with this. After you secure the coupling into the hose end place those little clamps on the end of the coupling and tighten the tiny screws.

You can fix a cut or split by buying a piece of hose with 2 clamps and cut the hose and put the two ends into the new piece and put a clamp on either side and screw then tightly.

There are really some neat things out there to help you fix things. Before you throw something out go to the hardware store and see if it can be fixed first.

Air Conditioner Filters:
These should also be changed occasionally. Turn off the air conditioner. Remove the snap-on front panel. Pull out the filter. If it's torn better replace it, if not, you can wash it. Best to do it outdoors. You could lay them out on your driveway or porch and spray the filter with a water hose until clean. Shake it out some
what and let dry in the sun. Replace filter and front panel.

Adjust the Sink Sprayer:
They do get clogged with mainly mineral deposits. You can do it! It only takes a few minutes. Take a small screwdriver and push the end cover off the sprayer. Remove the screw carefully and place the put the screw and screw cover in a dish or cup so you don't lose them. Remove the disk. Clear the holes in the disk with a straight pin or paper clip. You could soak the disk if it's really bad with deposits. Soak overnight in vinegar. Clean it up and reassembly the sprayer. If it's worse than that, one of the kids slammed it against the sink then you will have to replace it.

Cleaning a Faucet Head:
It's called an aerator and sometimes they do get clogged. Hold something around the aerator body like a wash cloth or that rubber jar opener thing and unscrew it counterclockwise. Disassemble the aerator and lay the parts out on the table. Rinse and clean out debris from screen and disk area. If worse mineral deposits just soak over night in vinegar. Remove further material from the disk and screen with a paper clip or straight pin. Rinse and reassemble as you took it off.

Adjusting a Window Shade Roller:
Remove the shade and brush any dust away that is on the ratchet and pawl (the end pieces) with a tooth brush or small paint brush. Spray some silicone on the ratchet and pawl and reinstall your shade. If it will not rewind when pulled you need to increase the spring tension. Pull the shade down 2 or more feet and let it catch and remove the shade. Roll up the shade maybe 1 ft. or so manually and reinstall it.
If it goes up too fast you need to adjust the spring tension by pulling the shade down 2 feet or more and let it catch again. Remove the shade. Unroll the shade at least 1 ft or more. Then you can reinstall it.

THOUGHTFUL IDEA.....
1. If you want to keep leaves out of your gutters just clean them out thoroughly and wash them down with a garden hose to clean
out the spouts. Then purchase some aluminum gutter screens at a hardware store and install them over top of the gutters. Some screens have tabs that have to be nailed under the shingles, and that's not hard to do. Other screens just fit between the gutter edge and shingles... your choice.

Some window safety features.
Don't underestimate a thief, if he want's to get into your house or apartment, he will! You can make it harder for him though. If you can't afford locking pins or security bolts or rod lock you can do this.... Drill a hole through the interior sash and partway into the exterior sash on the window. Insert a bolt, dowel or
large heavy nail into the hold. Work with it to make it loose enough that you can pull it in and out whenever you need to open the window. We did this on our windows and you cannot see the nail nor the hole and it works great. You cannot push that window up when the nail is in. (tips)


14. Easy to read book suggestions for further investigation.
Household Hints and Tips by Cassandra Kent
The Complete Idiot's Guide to Trouble Free Home Repair By David J. Tenenbaum
The Big Book of Small Household Repairs by Charlie Wing
Reader's Digest New Complete Do-It-Yourself Manual. (tips)


15. Links to on-line help for more details and who to contact for those bigger jobs.

www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/iip/shtm
www.homearts.com/pm/toc/oopmpcl.htm
www.homerepair.com
www.sharewareplace.com/101/101house.shtml
www.216.55.17.81/howto_index.htm

www.nobrainerblinds.com/info/links.asp
www.homeexpo.com/
www.homedoctor.net/main.html
www.thisoldhouse.com
www.homcentral.sierrahome.com/howto/
www.women.com-homerepair
www.household-helper.com
www.hometime.com
www.doityourself.com
www.allabouthome.com
www.repair-home.com/home.html
www.toiletology.com/index.shtml
www.homeadvisor.msn.com/improve/overview.asp

www.ourfamilyplace.com
www.factsfacts.com/myhomerepair
www.homeownernet.com
(tips)


16. HOME IMPROVEMENT STORES...
All across the country.
www.sears.com
www.Lowes.com
www.homedepot.com
(tips)